DESIGNER HIGHLIGHT: PHILO NEW YORK

Designer Anna Kociuga

Streetwear is one of the most striking fashion trends which has been rising for some time now. Philo New York landed on our radar when looking for some good quality streetwear. Behind the brand is a Polish born stunner, Anna Kociuga who graduated New York Fashion Institute of Technology. Before starting the brand Anna worked as a model and interned for companies such as Chloe and Victoria’s Secret.
Philo is made in a beautiful Poland and produces trend and essential fashion pieces. The brand is already on the must-have list of many influencers and fashionistas. We sat to chat with Anna about Philo.

Giulia: What sparked your interest in creating your brand Philo New York?

Ania: Since school, where I studied at Fashion Institute of Technology, in the heart of New York, seeing the rush and the speed of life that we all lead -I wanted to created a brand that is functional, inventive yet sophisticated.  Observing women, the needs, the lifestyles, the philosophies often verified by life, because of the changes everyone of us is going through on a daily basis. I wanted to create a brand that evolves along with the people and world progress. A brand that doesn’t projects fashion in the same convention all the time but changes along with women and the world we live in.

Giulia: What is your creative process like? 

Ania: I’m very much into hues, colors, clean form and the feel of fabrics;  I combine these into a form of what I personally think will be good to wear. I never follow trends. I don’t watch top designers since I don’t want to suggest myself anything . I totally rely on myself as just a regular girl and add my intuition as a designer. My designs are a reflection of what I feel. It’s super important for me, to create a balance between goal and its expression.

Giulia: How do you think your brand fits in times like today? 

Ania: I feel that innovative and functional Philo designs became a perfect essentials in everyday wardrobe. Life changes bring sudden plot twists that we need to accommodate to.  We need fashion that's easy to wear, yet innovative enough to stay visible and relevant.  I also care about price point, so that clothing I make is approachable especially in times of recession. 

Giulia: What kind of woman does your clothing fit to? 

Ania: Philo makes clothing for women who make difference. For women who are verbal and eager to live and create their own world on their own rules. For smart, energetic and brave women who will appreciate the simple form and the power of innovative detailing with hand finish.

Giulia: If you could pick a celebrity to wear your brand, who would it be? 

Ania: Jennifer Lopez.

Giulia: What are you fascinated at the moment and how does it translate to your work? 

Ania: I have been experimenting with neoprene and more technical fabrics that create an innovative form that can be beautifully transferred into an everyday wear for Fall/Winter.

Giulia: Where is the brand based? 

Ania: The Philo Showroom and the lab is based in Poland, Europe.

Giulia: Where can we order Philo pieces from today? 

Ania: www.philonewyork.com

Giulia: What is next for Philo New York?  

Ania: Fragrance line.

SHOP PHILO NEW YORK

Womens Sexy Fuzzy Warm Sherpa Fleece 3 Piece Outfit Fleece Coat Jacket Outwear and Spaghetti Strap Crop Top Shorts Set (Grey, S)

DESIGNER SPOTLIGHT - CLARISSE HIERAIX

Introducing couture’s new star: Clarisse Hieraix. Along with brands like Madame Grès, Carven designer launched her own collection after graduating from the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture in Paris, in 1999. Today Clarisse Hieraix designs and manufactures, under her own brand, couture, cocktail and wedding dresses in her atelier in Paris and sells to private clients and multi-brand stores in New York, Los Angeles, London, Milan, Moscow, St Petersburg, Almaty, Baku, Dubaï, Arabie Saoudite, Kowait, Katar...
Clarisse Hieraix woman asserts the elegant femininity and has the audacity to refuse fashion diktats. Each collection has a unique style. They give a new characteristic to this rebellious woman who metamorphoses to better reinvent herself.
After several fashion shows in Paris during the Haute Couture Fashion Week and extensive coverage of her creations in the fashion press (Vogue, L’officel, Elle, Harper bazar, CitizenK...), and has dressed celebrities such as Beyonce, Rihanna, Lady Gaga, Doutzen Kroes, Georgia May Jagger, Nicky Minaj.
I visited Clarisse in her studio in Paris during Paris fashion week to learn more about her design and behind the scenes process.

Giulia: What sparked your interest in fashion ? 

Clarisse: Creative madness, being able to "Dream" and transcribe it through the collections. Isn't it magical to have the chance to make your dream come true ?

 Giulia: Can you describe your creative process ?

Clarisse: My creative process revolves around the stories I tell myself through a man's gaze on a woman. This man is the Man in the absolute, who is about to be seduced.....  In each story I revisit period costumes and crinolines...  The theme, the common thread of each collection, is the DNA of my creative process. I draw my collections three years in advance, I then separate them by season and work around my four codes: wide hips, vertugadins, pleats and volumes on a controlled scale. Subsequently, I refine the details according to the theme with materials and textile embellishments. In the end, I draw more for the made-to-measure (couture dresses, wedding dresses and cocktail dresses).

 Giulia: What kind of women does your clothing speak to ? 

Clarisse: Over time I have realized that there are similarities between all my clients whether they are 25 or 65: they are women who know exactly what they want, and where they are going.  They are feminine, bold, passionate, determined, anti-conventional, with a strong identity and a touch of malice. They are my heroines....  

 
Giulia: What other designers do you relate to or love ?

Clarisse: My favorite designer is Claude Montana for his subtlety, sobriety and the architecture of his creations, and secondly Alexander McQueen for his creative genius.  

Giulia: You dressed a few celebrities, Is there one you are particularly proud of ? 

Clarisse: I am extremely flattered and honoured that these celebrities have entered my world and am so proud to have been fortunate enough to be able to dress all of them.

Giulia: If you could pick a celebrity to wear your upcoming collection who would it be ?

Clarisse: Eva Green for her dark side or Madonna for her outrageousness.  

 Giulia: What are you fascinated by at the moment and how does it feed into your work ? 

Clarisse: I am fascinated by everything but my favorite subjects are Art, Nature and Heroines. This trinity constantly enriches my creativity and allows me to dream. 

Giulia: Where can we order your pieces from today ? 

Clarisse: You can order my pieces through my Salon Couture in Paris. I make tailor-made pieces for an international clientele of Couture, Semi-Couture, Cocktail and Wedding Dresses that are all made in my atelier in Paris. I am currently working on my e-boutique where I will present a capsule of my new ready-to-wear fashion collection.  

Giulia: What is next for Clarisse Hieraix ?

Clarisse: The international expansion of the brand through the opening of two Couture Salons in London and New York. 

by Giulia Juliet Belkin

THIS MONTH DESIGNER SPOTLIGHT

Each month we take a moment to introduce you to an upcoming or already successful talent.

Here is a quick review of the best collections to look out for.  Get to know this diverse array of brands before they’re all massive.

Gućas Morgan

From London, UK Gućas Morgan is a design partnership between Will Morgan and Elena Gucas, and the design duo met while studying Bespoke Tailoring at London College of Fashion. Having cut their teeth at the likes of Thom Browne and Eckhaus Latta respectively, this young brand manages to perfect conceptual tailoring with a distinctly artistic approach.

Perfect patch-working is perfect, carefully calculated color palette and meticulous hand worked treatment that sets this brand apart from the sea of young graduates out there right now.

Keine Liebe

This Berlin-based streetwear reference rife in the German collection. The recently re-ignited label’s latest drop translates the city’s anarchist past into a punk-tinged drop of casual staples.All of the logo-emblazoned threads in different graphic iterations are sublime.

NAMACHEKO

it is rare for a menswear label to experience a meteoric rise in its first few seasons. Swedish/Kurdish menswear label Namacheko is one of the lucky few; just over a year after launch, the minimalist label is stocked by 38 retailers worldwide, including Dover Street Market, Ssense and Opening Ceremony.

If your label wants to be considered for future posts then, by all means, get in touch. Meanwhile, for more amazing highlighted talent, check out the rest of our Designer Highlight series.

DESIGNER HIGHLIGHT: NANNA VAN BLAADEREN

Dutch artist, Nanna Van Blaaderen, designs 100% natural fashion knitwear and home textiles that are visually inspired by the diversity of nature, and produced with the mentality that what humans make must remain in balance with what nature makes. At DeNada, we are inspired by Blaaderen’s admirable environmental mission and experimental sculptural designs that simultaneously fuse her two passions: animals and sustainability.

Nanna Van Blaaderen was born in the Netherlands where she remained to study fashion design and fashion forecast at The Willem De Kooning Academy. After graduating, Blaaderen continued to specialize in knit design and worked as a designer and fashion consultant for Maison Martin Margiela fashion house before she founded her own namesake label in 2011. In 2015, Nanna Van Blaaderen was the Woolmark Europe Women’s Wear prize winner which recognized her unique point of view and innovative use of wool in her designs. Blaaderen attempts to provide alternatives to fur by producing artistic and ethically grounded garments in collaboration with the Dutch Textile Industry. Her predominant use of merino wool, a uniquely soft and breathable variety, bridges the gap between nature-inspired fashions and functional garments for fast-paced life.

Nanna Van Blaaderen’s designs are inspired by an appreciation for the beauty and resilience of life on earth. Her use of natural fabrics is a tribute to nature and her 3D and structural garments recognize the mesmerizing forms found in the natural environment. Her hand knitted collections, designed with flexible merino wool, reflect the strength and elasticity of life that thrives in extreme and ever-changing conditions. Blaaderen channels various aspects of wildlife into her collections; pieces from her 2014-2015 fashion collection called “invisible”,  were inspired by the white fox’s ability to camouflage in its snowy habitat. Blaaderen draws on this idea of protection to materialize a tangible collection that is both beautiful and functional. The collection “visible” similarly integrates the obscure and seductive prints of African animals into delicate yet practical designs. Continued experimentation with natural materials and knitting techniques have yielded voluminous and sculptural garments that explore the relationship between the human body and ideas like protection and vulnerability, and coverage and exposure.

At DeNada we admire Nanna Van Blaaderen’s seamless integration of nature from inspiration to the production of her garments. Her designs truly pay homage to the art of knits and to the beautiful forms of nature.  

Sponsored.

DESIGNER HIGHLIGHT: ELEVEN SIX

After years of working at top corporations as a knitwear designer this British fashion designer and entrepreneur, Catherine Carnevale and her husband Nick launched ELEVEN SIX. The Art of knitting is very familiar to Catherine as she grew up learning knitting from her mother and grandmother. Catherine graduated from the University of Brighton, Englands with a Bachelor of Honors in Fashion textiles. Catherine held various designer positions in New York, but decided to leave the corporate world and pursue her passion. Today the couple split their time between Brooklyn and upstate New York and work with artisan women from Peru and Bolivia, creating a unique knitwear brand.

Why Peru?

Peru is where brand concept was born! Being in the vast and powerful Andes mountains of Peru, three months pregnant at a time and being ready for a life change was a big part of the brand inspiration. I was greatly inspired by the hand knitting skills of the Peruvian women artisans . I particularly loved they worked using their local materials mainly baby alpaca so that the products could be produced sustainably. I saw an opportunity to create a brand that gave back, supported and empowered women.

What does the brand name Eleven Six stand for?

The name ELEVEN SIX was born from a combination of my birth date 11th of June (from the European date form), and then my son's due date: 6th of November (US customary form). I have always liked numbers, and I liked that the name could be easily applied to other product areas within a lifestyle brand.

What is the DNA of Eleven Six?

Luxurious, versatile sweater dressing in a sophisticated neutral palette. Hand crafted yet modern. Elevated yet relaxed. Electric yet wearable. Contemporary yet timeless.

What is your creative process?

Often my approach to knitwear begins with creating the fabric through stitch techniques, pattern and texture and then forming the silhouette. The design process starts almost a year in advance. Knitwear and especially hand knit work has long lead times as you are creating the fabric from scratch and to exact shape. I start with creating my color palette and gathering inspirations and translate them into a sketched knitwear collection. I then make technical instruction packages for the factories/artisans whom translate and create my designs from sketches to reality!

How do you produce and sell your designs?

I produce in Peru with two small family factories and some artisan groups as well as in Bolivia with an artisan cooperative. The collection is sold wholesale through our sales showroom during fashion market periods in New York and Paris. Once orders are made by buyers we produce to order. We also sell through our own online shop, SPRING + Garmentory

What kind of woman does your clothing speak to?

I design for a modern woman in need of a versatile wardrobe to suit a lifestyle of work, travel and play. The woman is a conscious consumer and cares that the product supports artisan women and is sustainably produced.

What has been the biggest challenge?

Growing my direct to consumer sales.

Who is your muse?

Jane Birkin for her natural effortless beauty and relaxed chic

What's next for Eleven Six?

The first priority is to grow and establish the women’s knitwear business both through wholesale and direct online sales. From there I would like to expand on the home product offering which goes hand in hand with the ELEVEN SIX lifestyle. Perhaps later the collection could extend to men’s and kids? A goal much further down the line might to be have our own retail space which might partner with my husband’s coffee business knowledge from owning Gasoline Alley Coffee to combine both lifestyles. These are goals in the pipeline! From a philanthropic point of view I would like to support the education of knitted crafts in order to teach the younger generation that they can make a career from this training and that it is not just a craft of past generations.

DESIGNER HIGHLIGHT: RAQUEL OROZCO

Mexico City based designer, Raquel Orozco, dedicated over ten years building and establishing her ready-to-wear line. In her line Orozco offers glamorous and cosmopolitan garments while promoting Mexican techniques and materials. She incorporates leather, silk-crepe, gold-plated silver, and semi-precious stones in her pieces. Raquel showcased her FW17 collection at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in Mexico City. Her clientele includes many celebrities and dignitaries.

Designer Raquel Orozco.

When did you know you wanted to be a fashion designer?

I realized that i wanted to be a designer when I was looking for clothes with certain characteristics and I could not find them, so I thought, I have to start making some pieces for me , so I made them and my friends started to like what they saw and so it began.

What sparked your interest in fashion?

I always had interest in fashion , but I never think that I could be part of the industry of fashion.

Fourth annual Fashion Popup and Runway show featuring Mexican Designer Raquel Orozco as Grand Velas Riviera Nayarit continues commitment to Showcase Mexico's Art + Fashion.

Describe your creative process.

Dream , draw, and do it.

How do you produce and distribute your designs?

I produce all in Mexico , in my own workshop , and we are distributing in some very special places in Mexico and US.

What is the DNA of Raquel Orozco designs?

Elegance!

What is the inspiration behind Resort 2018?

The beautiful beach places we have in Mexico inspire me always.

What kind of woman does your clothing speak to?

Empowered women, women who are businesswomen who convey security in them.

Which celebrity would you want to see wearing your designs?

Anyone who feels at ease with my designs and transmits the DNA of my brand.

What is next for Raquel Orozco?

To continue enjoying every moment, the possibility that God gives me of being happy.

DESIGNER HIGHLIGHT: ERIN ROBERTSON

Photo courtesy Stephanie Chang.

If you are familiar with Project Runway, you must know who Erin Robertson is. The season 15 winner wowed the judges with her bright and bubbly final collection. After the show was over, Erin took her skills back to Boston, where her fashion career began. Today Erin is involved with several projects. She is working on a collaboration with Spoonflower for whom she designed a "protest print". The proceeds from sale will go 100% to charity. Erin curated a boutique with Rue La La and showed her recent collection at the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum. She was also the keynote speaker at the HARP (Harvard University) event.

Erin recently moved into her new studio and is exited to have a fresh new space for design. She is passionate about sustainable textiles and hopes to continue to grow this aspect of her work, creating some fun and playful designs that will be sold on her website. We caught up with the designer for an exclusive peek into all things fashion.

What sparked your interest in fashion?

I started being interested in fashion when I was in high school back in Provo, Utah. There wasn't much to see in Utah, fashion wise, so I started making what didn't exist. Thank god for fashiontrance back in the early 2000's for letting me see that fashion magic!

Describe your creative process.

I'm heavily inspired by material. I love re-working a material in a different way than it's supposed to be used. I like to have some sort of story and tell it in a humorous manner.

Photo courtesy Stephanie Chang.

You're Project Runway Season 15 winner. Describe your experience. What did you learn?

It was such a wild experience. It's a little hard to describe and actually understand what it was like. I've never been away from my phone, friends and anything familiar for 6 weeks. Designing and creating under the circumstances at PR are so different than anyway I've experienced. Making something in a day, only getting 30 minutes to shop at mood and making it in a day with no research. You really have to work from your gut brain and not your brain brain. I think that's the biggest take away is learning to listen to the gut.

What kind of woman does your clothing speak to?

I think they connect with the human that wants to stand out. I use a lot of color and texture so it's not for someone who wants to fit in.

You were the keynote speaker at the HARP event (at Harvard University) recently. Tell us about your experience.

Yeah! It was awesome. It's really nice to be able to share my story, success and failures, with students. I remember what it was like being in their spot so it's nice to give back what some talks have done for me.

You are inspired by innovation and sustainable textiles, will we see more of that in your next collection?

Oh, yah. I'm focusing more on projects rather that collections. And one of the projects I'm doing is collaborating with a student at MIT Media Lab who 3D prints fur. We're making a piece that is a comment on the fur industry. I'm really excited about this project. The other project is with my friend Jordan Piantedosi who is a painter/illustrator, and were designing textiles and getting them printed through Spoonflower. Which is the amazing company I've used for a while now from North Carolina who prints custom textiles. One part is a fundraiser protest print and the other is going to be a collection. Which will be exciting cause it's my first big body of work since Project Runway.

How do you feel about wearable technology?

I feel great about it. It's not perfect now, but there's got to be a lot of awkward moments until it's done right.

Only a few nugget minutes left on the boutique I curated for @ruelala 🍌 And if anyone wants to get me this fendi bag I'm OK with that 😛 pic by @stephlarsenphoto

A post shared by Erin Robertson (@an_erin) on Apr 18, 2017 at 8:57am PDT

Who is your muse?

Any human that wants to change the world for the better.

What advice would you give to young designers?

Don't get bummed on failures. It's easy to not want to create or take risks because of being afraid to fail, but it's through those terrible moments that you come out a better person. And you figure out what you don't like.

Where can we buy your next collection?

Setting up my e-commerce right now! Website will be up in a few weeks.

DESIGNER HIGHLIGHT: GEORGINE

Dutch born Georgine Ratelband graduated from Milan’s Istituto Europeo di Design in 2011 and created her eponymous luxury brand GEORGINE in 2012, with partner Chris Roshia, the brain behind the business. Georgine is dedicated to one concept: to create beautiful, chic clothing that every woman will feel great about wearing.

We caught up with Georgine before the show.

Photo courtesy Georgine.

What were you like as a child?

My parents were very liberal so I had a lot more freedom than some of my peers. I never really had to ‘rebel’ or act out because my parents trust I would make the right decisions. Truth! ;) I started going out very young and was mostly hanging out with older people. I think this gave me a different outlook on life and had experiences not necessarily kids of my age would have.
My family also traveled a lot so I got to see a lot of different cultures and worlds. Traveling opens your eyes. My parents are all for hard work and party hard. Since a young age I took over this mentality. My father made it very simple and told me I should look at my school performance as a business. If I don’t pass an exam it means my business would go bankrupt. I think I’ve always been quite mature for my age. I love to go out and meet new people, but could just as well spend quite some time by myself.

How did your fashion career begin for you?

Right after graduating, a prestigious boutique in Antwerp contacted me to see my thesis collection (they had heard about it via a client of theirs), they put in a decent size order! It was probably the biggest moment for me as I had zero intention of starting my own brand. Chris was working in Singapore at the time and would help me on his free time. Our clothing was hanging next to major brands and we didn’t even have an official company! This taught me you can do anything you put your mind to.

Describe the GEORGINE girl

The GEORGINE woman is bold and unapologetic. She is an international, feminine and powerful individual. She has an eye for detail. She is fashion forward.

What has been your biggest a-ha moment?

One of the first times we did several trunk shows in a row and I realized how much of a market there is for our brand.

Photo courtesy Georgine.

You’re originally from The Netherlands and now live in New York City. How do you draw inspiration from your native country and the city you reside in now?

With a Dutch upbringing comes a strong work ethic and a kind of pragmatism that I try to apply to my pieces as I like to create a versatile wardrobe. The GEORGINE woman is constantly on the move, whether traveling, working or bringing up a family she needs a wardrobe that works for her and makes her feel like her best self.

What is the inspiration behind Fall17 collection?

The inspiration for my Fall 2017 collection comes from permanent hotel dwellers, those glamorous creatures that have called the world’s most interesting properties home. Ranging from Coco Chanel’s suite at The Ritz and Oscar Wilde’s chambers at Hotel d’Alsace, to Howard Hughes bungalow at The Beverly Hills Hotel, and Edie Sedgwick’s room at The Chelsea Hotel, the transient energy of a chic enclave fueled their creativity and made everyday feel like a permanent vacation.

Photo courtesy Georgine.

What's been your best experience as a designer to date?

Working alongside the extremely talented and passionate people in our factories between New York and Italy are by far my every day highlight! In terms of one specific experience. I don’t know! Dressing Queen B!!! LOL

What has been the biggest challenge?

There have been so many it's almost impossible to highlight. One in particular. However from the countless challenges both Chris, myself and our company have faced over the years, have made us much stronger and that is the biggest take away from it all.

What are some of the must-haves in wardrobe for you?

Our mink heart purse, Red and Aqua silk stripe t-shirt dress and our yellow coat with intarsia fur shawl collar is a real showstopper!

Who is your muse? Which celebrity do you want to see wear your designs?

My muse is my client. She is my friend, she is the woman on the street you can’t stop starring at.

What is next for Georgine?

Besides the obvious of increasing our sales distribution in luxury multi brand boutiques and department stores we want to continue growing an amazing team of unique and exceptional individuals.

SEE GEORGINE FALL 2017 COLLECTION HERE

SHOP GEORGINE

DESIGNER HIGHLIGHT: MICHAEL COSTELLO

Michael Costello was contestant on eighth season of Project Runway. Out of the 17 contestants on the show, Michael finished in fourth. Ever since then it was nothing but success for designer who dressed celebrities like Beyoncé, Kesha, Lady Gaga, Caitlyn Jenner, Rita Ora, Nicki Minaj, Katy Perry, Jennifer Lopez, Toni Braxton, Ariana Grande, Carmen Electra. He along with his sister Stephanie Costello (who designs the Stello line) designed dresses for Kim Kardashian's wedding party. He custom-made Beyoncé's dress for the 56th Annual Grammy Awards and Los Angeles Times mentions how singer "stole the fashion show". Caitlyn Jenner wore one of his dresses for the trailer of her TV show I Am Cait. Costello was raised in Palm Springs, California and studied at Will Rogers High School. We caught up with designer himself after his Fall 2017 show as part of New York Fashion Week.

Photo Amaris Granado for Joliegazette.

J: What sparked your interest in fashion?

M: I have loved fashion since I was a kid, I have been interested in designing since I was 3. I opened my first boutique at 15 and have never really been as passionate about anything else.

J: Describe your creative process.

M: This is tough, I start with the fabric and the form. I then start to drape and put pieces together to see how the fabric moves. It has always been very important to me to make sure that the way my designs fit make a woman feel sexy and confident. These two feelings can only come from a harmony of fit and fabrication. If the fit is off, or the fabric doesn't move the way its intended, my woman can't embody the way I want my designs to feel.

J: What is the DNA of Michael Costello designs?

M: Golden glamour. Its highlighting beauty and skin and sensual pieces of a woman through color and silhouette. Giving women confidence for wanting to be seen and heard and feel beautiful while doing it.

J: What kind of woman does your clothing speak to?

M: A woman who isn't afraid to be feminine, flirty, vivacious and unique. My gowns are always special and one of a kind. Made to make each woman feel ( for that event, at least) she is unforgettable. This takes a certain type of woman to pull off.

J: What other designers do you relate to, love?

M: Gianni Versace is someone I really relate to. He had an exceptional talent for making a woman sexy and sophisticated. His fashion shows were always so fun to watch. His designs and the essence of Versace is a complete show stopper.
Elie Saab is someone I idolize, his ability to create the most beautiful things is remarkable. You can always see an Elie Saab dress on the red carpet.

J: You dressed a lot of celebrities. Is there one you are particularly proud of?

M: If I had to pick I would say I'm particularly proud of Beyoncé, Jennifer Lopez and Lady Gaga.

J: Which celebrity would you want to see wearing your designs?

M: If I could pick celebrities to wear my upcoming collection it would be Mary Kate and Ashley Olsen.

Photo by Amaris Granado for Joliegazette

J: What are you fascinated by at the moment and how does it feed into your work?

M: I am currently fascinated by a French romance. It is playing into almost everything I am doing with my upcoming collection, from the music, to picking fabrics it has been a real place of inspiration for me.

J: What is next for Michael Costello ?

M: Well...I am starting to collaborate with more people within the industry. Joining forces with other creatives and brands is something I am personally excited for.

Photo by Amaris Granado for Joliegazette

J: What advice would you give to young designers?

M: Let your fabric and your client speak to you. Design is a roller coaster of creativity Work with your materials and passion to guide you toward your goal.

Text: Juliet Belkin
Photo Amaris Granado for Joliegazette.
 

DESIGNER HIGHLIGHT: TU ES MON TRESOR by Aimi Sahara

Who are the designers behind Tu Es Mon Tresor?

I am Aimi Sahara. I started “Tu es mon TRÉSOR” back in 2012 in Tokyo.

What inspired you to start the brand?

Before I started my brand around 2008, I always needed clothes that went well with Chanel bags ( and other luxury brand items ). Formal suits and dresses don’t fit a young girl’s lifestyle so the only answer was to create a pair of jeans that works with a Chanel bag.

What is unique about Tu Es Mon Tresor designs?

I add extra detail onto jeans that can be worn in everyday life. The aim was to create a classic pair of jeans with a twist that can be handed down through the generations. We wanted the design to be universal and practical while still retaining its high quality.

Describe the girl who wears Tu Es Mon Tresor?

Imagine a girl living in the countryside getting dressed up for a trip to the city. Like a child raiding her Mom’s closet, she’s wearing a Burberry trench coat, a Hermes scarf and a Chanel handbag.

What other designers do you relate to, love?

Coco Chanel has of course inspired me throughout my journey. I have also learned a lot about fashion from Miuccia Prada.

Which celebrity would you want to see wearing your designs?

I am really happy to say that incredibly influential celebrities including Rihanna already have been seen wearing “ Tu es mon TRÉSOR “ jeans.

Where can we buy Tu Es Mon Tresor?

In the US, you can buy at NORDSTORM, INTERMIX, M’ODA ‘OPERANDI, ikram etc. The “Tu es mon TRÉSOR” brand is stocked in several stores in the US including.

What is next for the line?

I would like to be able to complete with other successful brands in the fashion world.That’s why today I am trying to create a pure brand that moves away from commercialization and puts the consumer first.

SHOP TU ES MON TRESOR

Sponsored.

DESIGNER HIGHLIGHT: YUKA UEHARA OF TOKYOGAMINE

Upon entering Yuka Uehara's top of the Nob Hill loft in San Francisco, we were pleasantly surprised by green tea prepared for us by Yuka's well-respected Japanese film producer and director father, Ryuji Fukuyama, grand piano and a room filled with brilliant designs by Yuka's young, but already successful brand TokyoGamine. She is a Japanese born, San Francisco based designer whose gowns are a true work of art. Her hand-painted couture dresses have caught the eye of San Francisco. Yuka has been working in fashion ever since she began helping out her father at the costume department for his film production company. Film and storytelling still informs her creative practice as she is a firm believer in the relationship between costume and character.

What made you go into fashion industry?

I got into the creative field by starting working on tv and film production with my father. Then I got fascinated with costumes, I worked with various production houses's costume department to learn about various techniques and mostly how to tell the story and characters in each individual pieces and as a whole production. I also fell in love with stage productions such as the ballet and the opera. The overall experience is something I like to express in my work. A piece that would reflect on the person who is wearing it. A piece that tells a story.

What is unique about TokyoGamine designs?

Perhaps it is the way I see things. I like to treat each piece as an individual piece in a gallery. What I am feeling at that moment is completely transferred into my work. And I think everyday we feel different things from our environment and surrounds, emotions from people we love and my current focus and my emotion makes me unique.

What inspires you?

Love of friends, family. Meeting new people, discovering to new places. Moments of happiness. Describe the girl who wears TokyoGamine? A modern woman who is fearless.

What other designers do you relate to, love?

Recently, delpozo. I love the architectural details in his work!

Which celebrity would you want to see wearing your designs?

Everyone!!! :) the brand is about the wearer, and how they would like to express themselves. I also would love to get into designing for any theatrical productions, cinema, theatre, ballet, and the opera.

What is next for TokyoGamine?

Ready to wear? :)

Interested in learning more about Tokyo Gamine? Set up an unforgettable appointment with Uehara now.

Sponsored.

DESIGNER HIGHLIGHT: BEAUFILLE

The name Beaufille translates to 'handsome girl' and symbolizes the contrast between masculine and feminine elements; the combination of hard and soft. Beaufille is a women's ready-to-wear and accessories brand founded in 2013, designed and created by sisters Chloé and Parris Gordon.

The girls combine their backgrounds in Textile and Fashion design as well as Jewelry and Metalsmithing to create a line of luxury artisanal womenswear and jewelry. Their official debut this season at New York Fashion Week got their name in fashion world buzzing. Love Ellery, you will love minimalist-friendly ready-to-wear brand that's is fashionista approved!

Photo courtesy: Beaufille

Sponsored.

DESIGNER HIGHLIGHT: JI OH NEW YORK

JI OH is an International Fashion Designer who was born in South Korea. Ji attended Central Saint Martins in London and moved to New York City in 2005 where she attended Parsons Design School. While continuing to rise in the New York fashion market, she launched her namesake brand JI OH in 2014. Ji has won sponsorship from the Korea Fashion association, and is a current awardee of the CFDA incubator program. We fell in love with Ji's designs the minute we discovered it and here is what else she shared with JOLIEGAZETTE.

What made you go into fashion industry?
I’ve always been into visual arts and thought the medium should be clothing. Then I went to fashion school.

How does it feel to be finalist in the CFDA / VOGUE Fashion Fund?
It’s amazing to be noticed by industry leaders, and I feel lucky to be able to have the chance. I’m humbled.

What is unique about Ji Oh designs?
The provocative elements in basic silhouettes. It’s about attitude and juxtaposition.

What inspires you?
How people present and carry themselves – New York is a melting pot so it’s great to see everyone on the streets.

Describe the girl who wears Ji Oh?
Girls who own their attitude and individuality.

What other designers do you relate to, love?
I love the casualness and minimal designs of Haider Ackermann, Martin Margiela and the brand Each Other.

Which celebrity would you want to see wearing your designs?
Rooney Mara and Léa Seydoux. I love their attitude and personas.

What is next for Ji Oh?
I recently launched e-commerce and am doing my best for CVFF so I won’t regret anything. Then I just need to make sure I survive while everything changes. Can’t wait to see more girls on the streets wearing my collection!

Sponsored.