DESIGNER SPOTLIGHT - CLARISSE HIERAIX
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Introducing couture’s new star: Clarisse Hieraix. Along with brands like Madame Grès, Carven designer launched her own collection after graduating from the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture in Paris, in 1999. Today Clarisse Hieraix designs and manufactures, under her own brand, couture, cocktail and wedding dresses in her atelier in Paris and sells to private clients and multi-brand stores in New York, Los Angeles, London, Milan, Moscow, St Petersburg, Almaty, Baku, Dubaï, Arabie Saoudite, Kowait, Katar...
Clarisse Hieraix woman asserts the elegant femininity and has the audacity to refuse fashion diktats. Each collection has a unique style. They give a new characteristic to this rebellious woman who metamorphoses to better reinvent herself.
After several fashion shows in Paris during the Haute Couture Fashion Week and extensive coverage of her creations in the fashion press (Vogue, L’officel, Elle, Harper bazar, CitizenK...), and has dressed celebrities such as Beyonce, Rihanna, Lady Gaga, Doutzen Kroes, Georgia May Jagger, Nicky Minaj.
I visited Clarisse in her studio in Paris during Paris fashion week to learn more about her design and behind the scenes process.
Giulia: What sparked your interest in fashion ?
Clarisse: Creative madness, being able to "Dream" and transcribe it through the collections. Isn't it magical to have the chance to make your dream come true ?
Giulia: Can you describe your creative process ?
Clarisse: My creative process revolves around the stories I tell myself through a man's gaze on a woman. This man is the Man in the absolute, who is about to be seduced..... In each story I revisit period costumes and crinolines... The theme, the common thread of each collection, is the DNA of my creative process. I draw my collections three years in advance, I then separate them by season and work around my four codes: wide hips, vertugadins, pleats and volumes on a controlled scale. Subsequently, I refine the details according to the theme with materials and textile embellishments. In the end, I draw more for the made-to-measure (couture dresses, wedding dresses and cocktail dresses).
Giulia: What kind of women does your clothing speak to ?
Clarisse: Over time I have realized that there are similarities between all my clients whether they are 25 or 65: they are women who know exactly what they want, and where they are going. They are feminine, bold, passionate, determined, anti-conventional, with a strong identity and a touch of malice. They are my heroines....
Giulia: What other designers do you relate to or love ?
Clarisse: My favorite designer is Claude Montana for his subtlety, sobriety and the architecture of his creations, and secondly Alexander McQueen for his creative genius.
Giulia: You dressed a few celebrities, Is there one you are particularly proud of ?
Clarisse: I am extremely flattered and honoured that these celebrities have entered my world and am so proud to have been fortunate enough to be able to dress all of them.
Giulia: If you could pick a celebrity to wear your upcoming collection who would it be ?
Clarisse: Eva Green for her dark side or Madonna for her outrageousness.
Giulia: What are you fascinated by at the moment and how does it feed into your work ?
Clarisse: I am fascinated by everything but my favorite subjects are Art, Nature and Heroines. This trinity constantly enriches my creativity and allows me to dream.
Giulia: Where can we order your pieces from today ?
Clarisse: You can order my pieces through my Salon Couture in Paris. I make tailor-made pieces for an international clientele of Couture, Semi-Couture, Cocktail and Wedding Dresses that are all made in my atelier in Paris. I am currently working on my e-boutique where I will present a capsule of my new ready-to-wear fashion collection.
Giulia: What is next for Clarisse Hieraix ?
Clarisse: The international expansion of the brand through the opening of two Couture Salons in London and New York.
by Giulia Juliet Belkin
DESIGNER HIGHLIGHT: MICHAEL COSTELLO
Michael Costello, fashion designer to the stars talks to Joliegazette
Michael Costello was contestant on eighth season of Project Runway. Out of the 17 contestants on the show, Michael finished in fourth. Ever since then it was nothing but success for designer who dressed celebrities like Beyoncé, Kesha, Lady Gaga, Caitlyn Jenner, Rita Ora, Nicki Minaj, Katy Perry, Jennifer Lopez, Toni Braxton, Ariana Grande, Carmen Electra. He along with his sister Stephanie Costello (who designs the Stello line) designed dresses for Kim Kardashian's wedding party. He custom-made Beyoncé's dress for the 56th Annual Grammy Awards and Los Angeles Times mentions how singer "stole the fashion show". Caitlyn Jenner wore one of his dresses for the trailer of her TV show I Am Cait. Costello was raised in Palm Springs, California and studied at Will Rogers High School. We caught up with designer himself after his Fall 2017 show as part of New York Fashion Week.
Photo Amaris Granado for Joliegazette.
J: What sparked your interest in fashion?
M: I have loved fashion since I was a kid, I have been interested in designing since I was 3. I opened my first boutique at 15 and have never really been as passionate about anything else.
J: Describe your creative process.
M: This is tough, I start with the fabric and the form. I then start to drape and put pieces together to see how the fabric moves. It has always been very important to me to make sure that the way my designs fit make a woman feel sexy and confident. These two feelings can only come from a harmony of fit and fabrication. If the fit is off, or the fabric doesn't move the way its intended, my woman can't embody the way I want my designs to feel.
J: What is the DNA of Michael Costello designs?
M: Golden glamour. Its highlighting beauty and skin and sensual pieces of a woman through color and silhouette. Giving women confidence for wanting to be seen and heard and feel beautiful while doing it.
J: What kind of woman does your clothing speak to?
M: A woman who isn't afraid to be feminine, flirty, vivacious and unique. My gowns are always special and one of a kind. Made to make each woman feel ( for that event, at least) she is unforgettable. This takes a certain type of woman to pull off.
J: What other designers do you relate to, love?
M: Gianni Versace is someone I really relate to. He had an exceptional talent for making a woman sexy and sophisticated. His fashion shows were always so fun to watch. His designs and the essence of Versace is a complete show stopper.
Elie Saab is someone I idolize, his ability to create the most beautiful things is remarkable. You can always see an Elie Saab dress on the red carpet.
J: You dressed a lot of celebrities. Is there one you are particularly proud of?
M: If I had to pick I would say I'm particularly proud of Beyoncé, Jennifer Lopez and Lady Gaga.
J: Which celebrity would you want to see wearing your designs?
M: If I could pick celebrities to wear my upcoming collection it would be Mary Kate and Ashley Olsen.
Photo by Amaris Granado for Joliegazette
J: What are you fascinated by at the moment and how does it feed into your work?
M: I am currently fascinated by a French romance. It is playing into almost everything I am doing with my upcoming collection, from the music, to picking fabrics it has been a real place of inspiration for me.
J: What is next for Michael Costello ?
M: Well...I am starting to collaborate with more people within the industry. Joining forces with other creatives and brands is something I am personally excited for.
Photo by Amaris Granado for Joliegazette
J: What advice would you give to young designers?
M: Let your fabric and your client speak to you. Design is a roller coaster of creativity Work with your materials and passion to guide you toward your goal.
Text: Juliet Belkin
Photo Amaris Granado for Joliegazette.
Canadian writer and producer Christopher Moloney takes us back to movie locations with this unique project.