The Talk With Ines de la Fressange - Karl Lagerfeld's Muse, Designer, Author, Supermodel.
I don’t have facial surgery and I laugh.
INTERVIEW BY Giulia Juliet Belkin
How do you top being a muse to the nation’s top designers? By becoming the face of France, as Ines de la Fressange did when she was chosen as Marianne, the symbol of the country, in 1989.
All that is cool and elegant and stylish about French women is Ines de la Fressange. In the '80s Inès de la Fressange reigned as the Supermodel. She was a muse to Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel throughout the decade.
As a celebrated author and designer, a perfumer, a model, and a mother, there was no one I wanted to meet and talk with more than the legendary Ines. I finally had the pleasure of sitting down with de la Fressange for a chat over coffee about being a muse and honing her personal style during my visit to Paris for Paris Fashion Week. And I got to see first Ines de la Fressange Spring/Summer 2020 collection which took place at Maison Dentsu.
Today Fressange is on her tenth collaboration with the Japanese brand Uniqlo and continues her ambassadorship for Roger Vivier since 2003.
Photo: Benoit Peverelli
Giulia: You've been Karl Lagerfeld's muse and Chanel ambassador for many years, what is the secret to your elegance?
Ines: Ahh thank you! Mmmmhhh you want me to be pretentious so this wouldn’t be so elegant ! (laughs) Let’s say I don’t try to show off (wearing ostentatious outfits for instance…)
Giulia: What do you think is, essentially, the allure of the Parisian woman?
Ines: A mix between casual & sophisticated with great freedom.
Giulia: I am sure you are aware there are many American women who want to dress like the French, but which American would you make an honorary French woman?
Photo: Benoit Peverelli
Ines: Oh I love this question! (laughs) Let’s start by saying I love American style and that american women don’t need to look, French. But let’s play the game, I would say Cate Blanchett ( I know she is also Australian) she is quite minimalist but never boring.
Giulia: What is your ultimate Parisian beauty secret?
Ines: I don’t have facial surgery and I laugh.
Giulia: You have just released your latest collaboration with Uniqlo called Megève. What can you tell our fashionistas about this collection?
Ines: That even if it’s freezing cold you can be elegant without catching a cold.(Megève is in the mountains)
Photo: Dominique Maitre
Giulia: How do you feel about influencers and bloggers today?
Ines: They are fun but I rather give interest to creative people.
Giulia: Whom do you follow on social media?
Ines: Leandra Medine: she is witty and bright. @Capucineschall: a genius !
Giulia: What do you think of fashion in general today?
Ines: Schizophrenic: you can chose to look like a bourgeoise, a rapper or a cowgirl !
Giulia: Can you highlight some of the new designers today who catches your eye?
Ines: Diane Ducasse ( very nice suits, you will discover her soon). Jacquemus ,it’s fresh and jolly.
Giulia: Do you like vintage clothing? Why?
Ines: I rather like them for inspiration because there are always interesting details but finally I don’t like to wear them.
Giulia: You don't age. Do you come to surgery when it comes to aging?
Ines: Thank you! listen today I want to tell you that I have never seen results on somebody that I liked but later maybe I will be depressed like an old sunset boulevard star and I will be full of Botox! (laughs)
Giulia: How do you feel about aging? Do you think it can be a beautiful art?
Ines: Honestly? It’s not such a pleasure for your face but great for the mind. One learns how to let go easier. Lately because of the loss of Peter Lindbergh we saw many of his pictures, his sense of the beauty of women is so benevolent and sensitive, I wish it could change the general idea women should only be twenty years old with a lot of Photoshop!
Giulia: What is next for Ines?
Ines: -Launching of a book « Parisian Chic » ( the new version of the one done 10 years ago)
-New collection for Ines de la Fressange Paris (my own brand) (www.inesdelafressange.fr)
-New year for my newsletter (www.lalettredines.fr)
-Opening of new shops for Roger Vivier
-Holidays in Argentina hopefully !
That’s all folks!
“The wealthiest people aren’t the most stylish.
Usually, when women can afford to shop in luxury stores, they’ll buy everything there. It’s better to try the high-street shops to buy a denim shirt or wear a T-shirt instead of a blouse under a jacket. I often look in the men’s and children’s departments too – in fashion, nobody should have prejudices.”
The Talk With Rushka Bergman - Creative Director and Stylist For Michael Jackson's "This Is It" Tour
“I am not trendy, I am FOREVER!”
PHOTOGRAPHY Lena Di
ART DIRECTION and INTERVIEW BY Giulia Juliet Belkin
STYLING Rushka Bergman
MUA Facefactoryny
Suit and shoes Céline, Sunglasses Tom Ford. Photo Lena Di
Michael Jackson’s This Is It tour was planned to take place in London, between 2009 and 2010. Some of the greatest figures from the world of fashion collaborated with The King of Pop on this tour - known today as "the greatest concerts that never happened".
One of those greatest few to work with Michael was Serbian born, New York based Rushka Bergman, creative director and stylist for the tour. As a Contributing Fashion Editor to Italian L’Uomo Vogue and Vogue Italia during Franca Sozzani time, Rushka visualized style covers for the likes of Steven Spielberg, Robert De Niro, Mickey Rourke, John Malkovich, Tim Burton, Hugh Jackman and many more.
Bergman received her degree in Economics from the University of Belgrade and moved to Ghana, shortly after, where she continued her studies in Fine Art.
Rushka walks into our NYC studio looking brilliantly Rushka-like. She is wearing above the knee white dress, heels and pair of dark shades. She's got her signature sleek long hair down, she is a class act with the subtle swagger of a rock star. "My apologies for being late." Rushka is passionate for any form of creative expression and it was clearly visible from the moment she arrived on set which she owned. A genuine artist, a visionary, timeless, fearless tastemaker, this Diva knows what she wants and how she want it.
It was fascinating to listen to Bergman talking about the sweep of her life and super hyphenate career. From her work with Franca Sozzani, how she met Michael Jackson, her work with Kardashians and opinion on influencers today. These are edited excerpts from our conversation.
Suit and shoes Céline, Sunglasses Tom Ford. Photo Lena Di
Giulia: When did your interest in fashion begin?
Rushka: When I was six years old I began to design skirts and styled myself for special events. I remember the clothes that I loved from that time – my school uniform was a pleated, black and white, plaid collar dress with black patent leather shoes.
Giulia: How did you go about getting into styling?
Rushka: When I was younger my gift for art and fashion emerged. I was living in West Africa in Ghana, I worked on an international fashion show with Edward Enninful, Ozwald Boateng, Pat McGrath and Joe Casey Hayford. This was when I started to express myself through fashion.
Suit and shoes Céline, Sunglasses Tom Ford. Photo Lena Di
Giulia: What challenges did you face getting started?
Rushka: When I started styling, there were not that many people like me working in fashion. It was very different at that time. I believed in my vision and myself, and I never competed with other people. I was confident that my gift would shine through. Early on, I participated in the Giorgio Armani exhibition at the Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum in New York, and was lucky to have Giorgio Armani choose my styling images for the cover of the Exhibition book.
Blazer, jeans and shoes Céline, Sunglasses Luxureyes_ . Photo Lena Di
Giulia: How did you start building that celebrity clientele?
Rushka: When I was working for L’Uomo Vogue and Vogue Italia, Franca Sozzani, the Editor in Chief at the time, asked me to work with celebrities for the magazines. I wrote all of the letters to the most famous people in the world that inspired me. At first, I did not know who would agree, but they responded and we got to work with Steven Spielberg, Tim Burton, Michael Jackson, and many others.
Giulia: What was it like styling Michael Jackson and This Is It tour?
Rushka: Michael Jackson was a genius, an innovator a creator, so he always wanted something new and forward. He challenged me to create unseen designs that no one had done before. He was always ahead of his time. My goal was to reassert his status as a fashion icon back. Michael was loyal, a true friend of mine, and he believed in my style. He had so much light, positive energy and a creative aura. His charisma pushed me to bring him new creative ideas. It was easy for me to work with The King of POP . Michael especially loved Balmain jackets with their sculpted pagoda shoulders. He liked the red leather "Thriller" motorcycle jacket with crystal-studded shoulders, seen during the rehearsals for "Thriller" in "This is it," as well as the black satin tuxedo style with a Swarovski-studded, white satin lapel. I miss and I love my friend Michael Jackson!
Top, denim jeans and shoes Céline, sunglasses Tom Ford. Photo Lena Di
Giulia: In my opinion, you are a fashion editor and stylist with a strong, sharp and sophisticated vision. How would you say that you differentiate your work from other celebrity stylists?
Rushka: I am an artist with a strong and unique sense of style – sharp, modern, yet timeless. I AM NOT TRENDY, I AM FOREVER! I am an academic, who studied fine arts and economics for many years. It is truly about education, who you are, your vision, putting the clothes together, and developing your own creative identity. The role of a fashion stylist in the industry is to be a cultural gatekeeper, storyteller, talent spotter and curator of ideas. "ONLY GREAT MINDS CAN AFFORD A SIMPLE STYLE."
Giulia: You worked with some of the biggest names and styled seventy-nine Vogue covers? How do you choose who you want to work with?
Rushka: L’uomo Vogue is all about the news, like which celebrities are shaping culture and the future. We always approached the best in their industries. We were featuring actors who had released the latest movies, musicians who had released the latest albums and singles, and artists who were of the moment doing the most interesting work.
Top, jeans and shoes Céline, sunglasses Tom Ford. Photo Lena Di
Giulia: What do you think has been your greatest achievement so far?
Rushka: Michael Jackson "This Is It" unseen haute couture clothes that we designed together with the likes of Hedi Slimane, John Galliano, Christophe Decarin for Balmain, Riccardo Tisci for Givenchy, and Kris Van Assche. I hope that one day the world will see the beauty and power of these last works of art Michael touched.
Giulia: How have you been able to build those relationships with designers?
Rushka: It is all about creativity and chemistry between people. When you are an artist on a certain level, it's easy to collaborate and build these relationships.
Giulia: What do you think is the best part of your job?
Rushka: Being a freelance artist, freedom is everything. The best part of this job is to dream big and to see the culmination of your creativity. I also direct short films now and I love it. Every second of our lives is a new and unique moment of the universe, a moment that will never be repeated. FASHION is found in the sky, street, gallery, library, museum and cinema. It is our way of living, of thinking and of feeling.
On Giulia vintage blazer, jeans Maison Margiela, shoes Bottega Veneta. On Rushka suit and shoes by Céline, sunglasses Tom Ford. Photo Lena Di
Giulia: What advice would you give someone starting out looking to be a celebrity stylist?
Rushka: Work hard, have a point of view, and if it happens, it happens. To be a celebrity stylist you have to be flexible, educated and cultured, so that you can communicate with your client and command their respect.
THE TALK WITH Fashion Designer zac posen
I really care. That's where it comes from. And I push myself as hard as standards I hold others. Always.
photography Dana Hargitgay
Zac Posen launched his eponymous collection in 2001, with a vision for modern American glamour that married couture technique with striking innovation. In 2004, he was awarded one of fashion’s most prestigious honors, Swarovski’s The Perry Ellis Award for Women’s wear by the CFDA. On December 18, 2012, Posen was announced as an official judge of Project Runway Season 11 on Lifetime Television. In 2015, Zac Posen was also awarded Designer of the Year by Women’s Wear Daily and Variety Magazine.
Today, Zac is known globally for his technique in artisanal craftsmanship, anatomical construction and textile manipulation. In Fall 2014, Zac Posen was announced as Creative Director for the Brooks Brothers signature women’s collection and accessories. Worn by leading women, including Uma Thurman, First Lady Michelle Obama, Gwyneth Paltrow, Naomi Watts, Claire Danes and Rihanna, he has become a staple on the red carpet. In recent collaborations, Posen was selected to redesign the uniforms for Delta Air Lines 60,000 employees. These uniforms are set to appear on Delta Air Lines staff members, from flight attendants to customer service, in May, 2018. We sat down for a quick chat with Zac before his presentation at Neiman Marcus San Francisco.
Juliet: You were just in Japan, was this a business or pleasure trip?
Zac: It was both. I was in Tokyo for some pleasure and was fortunate to go to Kyoto for Cherry blossom season, Sakura, which was a dream come true. Kyoto was a craft city so that's something that I definitely appreciate a great deal.
Juliet: Did you meet Geisha's on the streets of Kyoto?
Zac: There are definitely people in some traditional dresses throughout the city. Not just in area where they live, Gion.
Juliet: I have to visit one day.
Zac: It's worth it. It's very crowded during cherry blossom season. It's good to go at any time. And I worked with Brooke Brothers and Delta.
Juliet: I hear it's going to get really fashionable up there in the air very soon. Tell us more about Delta uniforms designed by Zac ? When is the rollout ?
Zac: Yes, the rollout is in May. It's been a big, long process. Very collaborative. We started a long time ago now and developed smartly overtime in collaboration with people in different disciplines. It's called a
Juliet: Are there any unique details that you are using?
Zac: Many, but you'll have to see it for yourself.
Juliet: Can't wait to book a flight with Delta.
Juliet: Outside of fashion you are a judge on Project Runway and I hear you are a very tough judge to please? What makes you Simon Cowell of Project Runway?
Zac: I believe in excellence, I believe in any creative field.I guess weather you are, you know in your analogy that you know if you're a performer, you have to be everything. You have to have natural talent, you have to be trained, you have to be rehearsed and the same applies in fashion. Fashion is a very competitive industry. And there is only room for the best of the best.
Juliet: And this is your 10th season with Project Runway?
Zac: No it's my 7th. But it's been really fun journey. You know, I don't believe in sugar-coating what you see as a judge. You don't want to be mean. I don't think I am as mean as Simon at all. I actually think I give great constructive criticism.
Juliet: You are not mean, you are very nice.
Zac: I try. But I think it's really important to get the best out of designers. I am not there just to make a fluffy TV. I really care. That's where it comes from. And I push myself as hard as standards I hold others. Always.
Juliet: We are at Neiman Marcus San Francisco today just before your runway show. Talk about the collection you are showing.
Zac: Well it's a mix of few collections. Collections that are in stores, collection that is coming in a matter of days and collection that's coming in a month. We are showing evening looks and Ken Downing, the fashion director and an old friend of mine and collaborator. We'll be doing a Q&A during the show. So it's not like a full runway show, it's more of a presentation , but I think more and more today having store events and experiences directly with the customer is really important. On top of it, you know, in like 2003 I did my first trunk show here and it was a huge event, we closed down the store. The whole ground floor was cleared out and we made different set pieces with furniture and different staging.
Juliet: Wow!
Zac: Different times! Different time in retail and fashion and we're trying to bring it back. The experience of that. San Francisco has been a huge part of my career, it's a city I adore. I think it's magic here. Really special place. I like the mix between creativity and invasion within tech, history and romanticism, there is European quality here and then there is obviously a heavy influence from Asia. And it's California which is amazing! Great state!
Juliet: If it wasn't for fashion, let me guess, you'd become a chef?
Zac: No, I'd never be a chef in the kitchen, no way! I don't want to run a restaurant. I don't want to be in a restaurant on a daily basis.
Juliet: But talk about the Cookbook you wrote.
Zac: Yes, Cooking with Zac! Well I have a cookbook, it's out. And, ah, you know, I am probably preparing maybe for another one, tbd. Food is love! I think food is one of the most gracious things. When you're cooking a meal for somebody or for friends it's one of the nicest things you can do. And it is still creative, it is tactile, I am using my hands, I grow a lot of my ingredients. My parents live on a farm and we grow a lot of produce there.
Juliet: That's amazing!
Zac: Yes, I just love the process. It's connection with Earth.
Juliet: Is there a favorite recepi that we should look out for?
Zac: Oh, that's hard. That's so personal. It's quiet eclectic, the food in there. You know I cook traditional Japanese, I cook Italian, I cook American fare, you know I think in that sense it's actually very American because of multiple references.
Juliet: How did you learn all these recipes?
Zac: I've taught myself with time. I have many friends that are chefs that I deeply respect. Many tips that I write about and in the book too, it's not just recipes it's also anecdotal stories throughout my life that I explain. So go check it out.
Juliet: Where can we buy the book?
Zac: It's on Amazon.
Juliet: Let's talk a little bit about influencer marketing. How do you feel about influencer marketing and do you use that method of marketing in your career?
Zac: Well I think today with the ability to directly talk to fans and the consumer, and if you are a young creator you can really curate and create a look and get your message out.
Juliet: So you like the idea?
Zac: Oh it's here, it's the reality whether one likes it or not. It's definitely here and I think it's evolving into a whole other story.
Juliet: Do you have a favorite blogger or influencer?
Zac: Oh, I love @dietprada
Juliet: The Met Gala! Can you share with us who you are dressing?
Zac: No, I never share who I am dressing or whom I want to dress. It is always a surprise!
Juliet: Well, we can not wait to see who it will be.
Zac: It's going to be very, very exciting!